Words and visuals by Josephine Choe.

In the realm of sartorial excellence, the Brooklyn Museum presents Thierry Mugler: Couturissime (November 18, 2022 – May 7, 2023), a mesmerizing retrospective that delves into the universe of the French designer and visionary creator of perfumes, Thierry Mugler.

Renowned for his daring ingenuity and uncompromising artistry, Mugler emerged as a trailblazer, leaving a mark on late twentieth-century fashion. Through his exploration of silhouettes and employment of materials like glass, Plexiglas, vinyl, latex, and chrome, Mugler reshaped the course of fashion history.

Thierry Mugler: Courtissime

Nov 18, 2022 – May 7, 2023

“I have always tried to sublimate the body and to make people dream.”

Thierry Mugler

In the era of the 1970s, Mugler’s creative genius birthed the acclaimed “glamazon,” a symbol of chic modernity that transcended the lingering echoes of the 1960s hippie fashion. Throughout the decades of the 1980s and ’90s, Mugler revitalized haute couture, breathing life into it through his provocative collections and theatrical fashion shows that took place amidst grandiose settings, featuring the era’s most iconic models. And even today, as Mugler’s designs continue to influence a new generation of couturiers, celebrities grace red carpets adorned in his pieces.

This exhibition showcases over one hundred ensembles, spanning the gamut from haute couture garments to stage costumes. The installations mirror Mugler’s futuristic and innovative approach to artistry. More importantly, these ensembles have continually bestowed upon women a profound sense of empowerment.

In the legendary music video for George Michael’s “Funky Town,” Mugler’s costumes took center stage, seamlessly merging with the vibrant energy of the song. From bold and avant-garde silhouettes to embellishments and theatrical elements, his designs elevated the visual narrative, creating a captivating world that perfectly encapsulated the spirit of the music.

In his rendition of the classic cowboy style, Mugler decorated Ellen von Unwerth’s ensemble with jewels and infused a monochrome red palette from head to toe (literally extending from the hat to the boots). Adding to the grandeur, Mugler’s cut-out technique in the pants further heightened the overall sense of dramatic flair.

The culminating space within the exhibition serves as an entrancing gateway to a whole new realm — an ethereal oceanic landscape. Within this environment, every costume curated reflects an inspiration drawn from the minutiae of marine existence, evoking the delicate textures of jellyfish and the patterns of fish scales.

Closing thoughts

In the realm of Mugler’s creations, enchantment becomes inevitable. His costumes invite us to dream and wonder, as it is clear that his imaginative visions effortlessly materialize into reality. Mugler’s work stands as a testament to breaking free from limitations, inspiring all who engage in the act of creation. Moreover, his designs serve as a powerful reminder that there exists a vast expanse of possibilities beyond what we commonly perceive. As we behold Mugler’s legacy, let us embrace the challenge to transcend our own boundaries and discover the boundless horizons that await.

Thierry Mugler: Courtissime

November 18, 2022–May 7, 2023
THE BROOKLYN MUSEUM